FJRiders.com

..quit working on KrZy8 after years of use.

Replaced pad switch with NOS.
Checked ground, SAT.
Vacuum tank has integrity, no leaks.
Vacuum port has vacuum (inlet port).
Replaced main unit with NOS.

Voltages are:

10 pin connector
BLACK - ground. 0.1 ohms measured
RED - 12VDC always --> Key on, 11.6, 12.3 battery
BROWN - +12 ignition on, CC On --> 12.1, 12.3 battery
PURPLE - +12 brakes on. 10.1, battery 12.1 brakes on. Brakes off .18 VDC
GREEN - +12 Set/Coast pressed. 0 VDC off. 12.2 pressed, batt 12.4. 0 VDC released.
YELLOW - +12 Resume/Acc pressed. 12.1, batt 12.3 pressed. 0 VDC released.
BLUE - ACV increase with engine RPM, red diagnostic LED blinks faster. --> Red light illuminates at cranking rpm, no start condition. (Pulse signal from coil)
GREY - Vehicle Speed Sensor - not used

Any ideas guys?

Ruling out simple stuff, what are your DIP switch settings?

A couple quick thoughts...

Does the pad light up when you turn the CC on? You've had it long enough - you know the lights on the pad I'm talking aboot.

Have you checked your rear brake? My AVCC would not engage - yamafitter de-gunked my rear brake pedal at Tech Day a while back and then the AVCC would engage.

I went through 3 of them before the last one shit the bed.

I finally fixed it for good buy purchasing a gen 3

Dcarver,

Don't know that CC, but if it cuts off by pulling the clutch or hitting the brakes, see if those switches are working correctly. Even on the OEMs, a sticky pedal or bad switch can prevent the CC from operating.

DesignFlaw06 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 15, 2022 5:02 pm Ruling out simple stuff, what are your DIP switch settings?

1,4,7 On. All others Off.

BikerGeek wrote: ↑Wed Feb 16, 2022 11:51 am A couple quick thoughts...

Does the pad light up when you turn the CC on? You've had it long enough - you know the lights on the pad I'm talking aboot.

Have you checked your rear brake? My AVCC would not engage - yamafitter de-gunked my rear brake pedal at Tech Day a while back and then the AVCC would engage.

Thanks BG! Either front or rear brake activation sends +12 VDC up the Blue wire to cancel CC engagement. Mine measures 0.13 VDC with no brakes on. 10.8 VDC with either front or rear brake activated.

Red wrote: ↑Wed Feb 16, 2022 7:05 pm Dcarver,

Don't know that CC, but if it cuts off by pulling the clutch or hitting the brakes, see if those switches are working correctly. Even on the OEMs, a sticky pedal or bad switch can prevent the CC from operating.

Hi Red,

The clutch disconnect is actually a fast pulse count from the coil detected by the AudioVox CC. The brake switches send 12 VDC up the blue wire to activate the dump servo.

2022-02-17 More Cruise Control Work


Installed NOS control switch. Red B+ wired jumpered to Gray (Parking) wire so backlight LED's are on and the center LED illuminates when Power switch is activated.

Installed new control unit and servo, NOS, as a 'unit'.

Installed NOS wiring harnesses and connectors. Ran ground directly back to Blue Seas fuse block

Took voltage measurements, all looks good

Called AudioVox support (1-800-645-4994 option 4) to clarify Green wire position 8, 'Closed Circuit Test'. My voltage readings were backwards on this test... 0 VDC unpressed, 12.2 VDC pressed. Turns out AudioVox used two separate switch systems, the 'open' switch us motobikers use and a 'closed' switch used on some autos. The 'Closed Circuit Test' isn't applicable for our use.

Left the Blue wire, tach pulse from coil, available for testing later. To test, look at the diagnostic LED on the PCB. The cover has to be off to see it. I could not test and look at LED as the servo sits ahead of the water pipe manifold. Meaning I had to install the servo wire cover, place it where it needs to be, then install water pipe manifold and gas tank.

But, if it still doesn't work, I can access the Blue wire with ACV voltmeter. ACV should rise with RPM. I did crank the engine with tank off, and the LED did illuminate, but seemed like it stayed on and I didn't want spin the starter motor longer than needed.

Tested the vaccuum check valve, it appears to be SAT.

NOTE - after starting the bike, I later removed the vacuum line and it 'hissed' at me indicating it had a good vaccuum 'trapped'?

Read on another forum some guys had problems with 1 of the 3 vaccuum servo motors sticking. A little light oil, like 3n1, cleared the issue for them.

Tomorrow will button everything up for a test hit on Saturday.

I wonder if the CC can be engaged and tested on the centerstand?

dcarver wrote: ↑Fri Feb 18, 2022 12:29 am Read on another forum some guys had problems with 1 of the 3 vaccuum servo motors sticking. A little light oil, like 3n1, cleared the issue for them.

In ancient times I installed a vacuum servo CC on my new 1978 Dodge (Mitsubishi) Challenger. It quit working a year or so later. Seemed to be wired OK. Ohmed the solenoids on the vacuum servo and decided one had failed in the open position. Think there were two, one to release, one to pull the throttle cable. Somewhere I found a suitable solenoid vacuum switch that I spliced inline with the vacuum line. Served until 1986 when I replaced the car with a VW Golf.

If your problems persist I believe I have a complete Audiovox CC removed from a motorcycle over 20 years ago. Untouched since. Don't know who installed it. Don't know who removed it. Parts-is-parts.

If I recall correctly we did test Timmy's on the centersatnd Don. Seems like it worked.

Bust wrote: ↑Fri Feb 18, 2022 6:27 am If I recall correctly we did test Timmy's on the centersatnd Don. Seems like it worked.

Pretty sure it didn't work on the centerstand. I had to keep going out on test runs and it was a pain in the ass to go back to the servo because we installed it under the tank.

Guessing traction control doesn't like the rear wheel spinning with front not. Don't know what years (without CC) to which that would apply. Put my 2016 in gear and spun the rear wheel on centerstand in attempt to wake and test TPMS. Spun the wheel alright but for some reason the TPMS did not wake. All I got for it was a CEL that required an OBD scan tool to clear.

I'm going pull the RHS cowling to access the coil tap point for the blue wire... then measure resistance on the blue wire suppressor... compare it to a new one still in the box. maybe the tach signal is weak? Drawing at straws now, for sure.

Blast from the past, from, i believe, ionbeam.

You've checked the trigger signal from the brake for voltage, but that is only half the equation. How much voltage does the cc require to trigger? If it triggers at 2v and you have 3v in the brake light circuit at idle without the brake applied its never going to set.

This was the exact problem i had with one of my units. This happened midlife while in service. No explaination as to why.

Putting a relay in the circuit to isolate solved the issue.

Don't know if this will help, but get the basics down of a good reliable source of signal... Switched power from the tail light wire or auxiliary fuse panel, brake light tie-in near the airbox, ensure the one-way valve to vaccum is not faulty, ensure you can draw vacuum and hold it (no leaky reservoir, hoses or servo diaphram. Tach signal taken right from the ECU, not the coils... IIRCC, gray or orange wire, either one works, but eliminate any variables involving the coils. And of course, a solid ground and dip switches set correctly. Check out that .pdf you got from FJRJayke not a bad idea.

Mine only ever failed from a corroded control pad, which was easily cleaned up and re-waterproofed.

Thanks Ray!

All VDC at 4 and 10 pin are correct, with possible exception of 0.2 VDC on Purple <brake signal>. Going to disconnect Purple and test.

Tach signal from coil appears to be SAT

This video is VAC tach signal varying w engine RPM, frequency


This is VAC w/ engine RPM


Not sure what they should be but will measure 'suppressor' resistance between installed unit and NOS.

Bought a new MightyVac and will test vacuum 'circuit'.

I did check, both rear brake light, incandescents, are SAT. Will remove the LED brake activated license plate from circuit just to troubleshoot.

?? Should the 1 way vacuum valve be with arrow pointing away from vacuum source (inlet port spigot?)

“Will remove the LED brake activated license plate from circuit just to troubleshoot.”

I think this may be your problem: residual voltage
from from the LEDs backfeeding into the brake
circuit, causing the CC to see + voltage.

SLK50 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 9:24 pm “Will remove the LED brake activated license plate from circuit just to troubleshoot.”

I think this may be your problem: residual voltage
from from the LEDs backfeeding into the brake
circuit, causing the CC to see + voltage.

I hope it's that simple. I know things change with time and all, but the aux led brake light had been 'in circuit' for years and the CC worked. Still, something to try.

... the lift is currently occupied by a DL650, countershaft seal replacement. But soon!

~d

You could disconnect the purple wire from the brake light and connect it straight to ground, that'll tell you if that's the issue and if a relay would need to be installed. Obviously if it were to engage, you would have to turn it off at the pad.