Yamaha FJR1300 and Riding Enthusiasts
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The Garage is attatched although there is very little to no access to ad ducting at this point. After talking and debating with the ac and insulation guys about cross flow and all that crap i went with fully foam insulting all 4 walls and ceiling , the garage door is fully insulated with the highest rated insulatin at 2.5 inches thick and im going to eventually add a window unit.... that came out to being most cost effective and if the window unit craps out i can have it replaced in an hour or so. That was my thinking along the way anyway.Bounce wrote: ↑Mon Aug 10, 2020 7:50 am Attached garage? If so, I had the HVAC guy add a couple of vents in the garage. I can open them the night before a planned project and the garage is at the same temp as the rest of the house.
Yes. Insulation is critical and you can get kits for the overhead door.
I doubt the mercury has deteriorated over time or changed response to temperaturenatehawk750 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 11, 2020 8:43 am I have an old thermometer in there...that was in my grandfathers work shop so who knows how accurate it is.
Perhaps the glass tube may have slipped down a bit when compared to the temperature scale. How does it compare to the readout on your FJR?Well, that sucks. Or maybe it blows. Of course, maybe it not blowing is whats causing this whole thing to suck. Still, if it's not sucking right then it can't blow, which either blows or sucks, depending on your perspective. What I do know is you need to get rid of one of those, zoom zoom cars and get a frigging truck. Then the suckage for this endeavor wouldn't be so bad, but you might get blown off the road by some idiot in a zoom zoom car, which would suck.Bounce wrote: ↑Tue Aug 11, 2020 7:58 am I'm with you on the insulation. We had the garage finished as is typical around here. Being attached means only 1 wall, the ceiling over the garage, and the overhead door weren't insulated. After the AC replacement that prevcipitated the additional ducts, I used the last of the sheet insulation from the shop build and laid them in the gaps between the joists. Later, on an insulation binge, I got additional insulation blown in throughout; including over the sheet insulation. Then the door insulation (also thick like yours).
On it's own, it's much slower to cycle through hot and cold but with our summers being 4 months (or more) of 90º+ days (usually a month of 100º+), there's no stopping it getting hot without AC of some kind.
Which beings up my recent issue (portable AC out in the shop). Got a Whynter ARC-14SH 14,000 BTU. It just failed but is within a week of the 1 year warranty, so I was able to stop the clock and get the warranty process started. Did they forget to mention that there are no authorized service centers and that shipping both ways is only for the first 2 months of the 1 year warranty. After that YOU pay shipping there (heavy and large so costly), the fix or replace and ship back on their dime... To/from California.
Oh yeah, it won't fit in my trunk or in the back seat (even folded down) so I had to rent a PU from u-haul so add that $40 for 30 minutes to the cost of the warranty.
I'm a poet and Wheaties knows it!!
Why the f@$k have I never heard of or thought of this solution.Bounce wrote: ↑Mon Aug 10, 2020 7:50 am Attached garage? If so, I had the HVAC guy add a couple of vents in the garage. I can open them the night before a planned project and the garage is at the same temp as the rest of the house.
Yes. Insulation is critical and you can get kits for the overhead door.
I moved into a house that the one car garage had been turned into an extra bedroom. I ripped out the wall and carpet, put an insulated garage door in and left the HVAC vents going out there. Best thing ever. Working on the bike in a cool environment in the middle of Texas summer was amazing. I wish I had A/C in my current garage.Abercrombie FJR wrote: ↑Wed Aug 12, 2020 1:57 amWhy the f@$k have I never heard of or thought of this solution.Bounce wrote: ↑Mon Aug 10, 2020 7:50 am Attached garage? If so, I had the HVAC guy add a couple of vents in the garage. I can open them the night before a planned project and the garage is at the same temp as the rest of the house.
Yes. Insulation is critical and you can get kits for the overhead door.
Where I live, you can insulate to infinity (not really for your pundits) and eventually the heat load to the exterior will force the interior up to ambient. In the summer, our lows are often 85-90 degrees some years.raYzerman wrote: ↑Wed Aug 12, 2020 7:39 am When I built my shop, there was no way I wasn't having a 2" insulated door. Ceiling is R50+ and walls are R23, 1000 sq/ ft, 10' ceilings. On the hottest days, the temperature inside is around 8-10 degrees cooler than outside and humidity levels are low. A couple of fans and airflow is good. No AC but can easily add a window unit. Propane-fired infrared tube heater (40k BTU) for winter, very efficient, no open flame.
You can tell where a person lives by whether they put in a heater or A/C unit. Ray was pretty specific on the specs of his heater.Bounce wrote: ↑Thu Aug 13, 2020 10:22 amWhere I live, you can insulate to infinity (not really for your pundits) and eventually the heat load to the exterior will force the interior up to ambient. In the summer, our lows are often 85-90 degrees some years.raYzerman wrote: ↑Wed Aug 12, 2020 7:39 am When I built my shop, there was no way I wasn't having a 2" insulated door. Ceiling is R50+ and walls are R23, 1000 sq/ ft, 10' ceilings. On the hottest days, the temperature inside is around 8-10 degrees cooler than outside and humidity levels are low. A couple of fans and airflow is good. No AC but can easily add a window unit. Propane-fired infrared tube heater (40k BTU) for winter, very efficient, no open flame.
