FJRiders.com

Thanks Ray. The piece of information I was missing was the size of the nut on the AK-20. I did not know whether the nut on the AK-20 was the same as on the original cartridge (I knew the OEM was 26 mm). Or even if it was a regular hex nut or or possibly something different like a castellated nut. For the installation of the AK-20, they say not to use Loctite so I hope the original owner didn't use it and the "wrench" isn't needed. Impact should do it.

Edit: I had emailed Dan at Traxxion Dynamics and just heard back from him. Looks like an easy (cheap) solution for the cartridge holding tool...

"Instead of having a $200 cartridge holding tool like other brands, we made the inside of the upper bearing housing a square. We use a piece of square tubing with a hole drilled in the end, stick a screw drive through the hole as a handle. We include it free with AK20s. It’s 5/8” square tubing, you should be able to find that locally."

Ok kool. I only know of 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch.. maybe the 3/4 is 5/8 on the inside... or close enough. Flare it out a bit if not big enough. It doesn't take much to hold the cartridge, the problem comes when you have the bottom bolt just loosened and the cartridge starts to spin. No real torque on that bolt by then, so just need a holder....
I never use loctite on the bottom bolt. The copper washer is more than adequate. Keep torque low, I'd say 20 ft. lbs. max.... goodentite, you can feel that with a copper washer. If loctite is used, you will definitely need the cartridge holding tool.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Oct 20, 2020 9:51 am Ok kool. I only know of 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch.. maybe the 3/4 is 5/8 on the inside... or close enough.

He said they made the inside of the top fitting a square so OD of 5/8 is what is needed. Since it is square, I suspect that 1/2" would be good enough. Not like there is a lot of torque needed. I would probably not use a torque wrench to tighten but I expect 20 ft-lb might be too much. (Max, as you say)

Gen2 FSM says 23 which is way too much IMHO, I know a couple who didd that and stripped or broke the lower cartridge valve (just try to find one of those!!). 2016 FSM says 17, which is because of the cartridge design. 17-20 is good enough to me as the copper washer is going to act like a crush washer of sorts. Remember too, unless you cleaned that bolt right dry, it's a lubricated thread and torque should be reduced.

I was going through "stuff" that the previous owner gave me with the bike and came across the cardboard box that the Traxxion springs came in. He had placed the OEM springs in the box (anyone need any?) when he installed the Traxxion stuff. He also placed the 5/8" square tube tool that Traxxion provides with their shocks in the same box!! Looks like all I need now are the various seals and bushings.

FSM says to replace the metal wire oil seal clip, the bottom copper washer seal and the top cap O-ring. I did not do so when I did this service on my '07 but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to have them on hand just in case. Those three parts only add about $7.00 per fork to the parts cost and you avoid the headache of dealing with a leak or waiting to order stuff if the part is damaged during disassembly. Easy to nick an O-ring or find that the copper washer at the bottom is damaged. Wire clip to retain the oil seal is probably no issue but they have been known to take flight during removal.

A bit of confusion with the FSM vs on-line parts fiche for the bushings. (I only need the top and bottom - middle is not normally used with the Traxxion setup) Fiche: https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oempa ... front-fork

The FSM refers to the bushings as Outer tube bushing 1, Outer tube bushing 2 and Inner tube bushing but does not give Yamaha part numbers.
The parts fiche gives ambiguous identifications plus part numbers.
Metal, Slide 1 4SV-23125-10-00
Metal, Slide 2 3P6-23135-00-00
Metal, Slide 2 4SV-23135-10-00
From the diagram, it appears that I need the first and third item (Items 5, 30 and 3, 28)
Please correct me if I am mistaken...

Season is winding down so this is likely to be a winter works project (or early spring if it is too cold to work in the garage).

3P6-23135 is the middle bushing, your option to install it or not.
Toss the Yammy wire retaining ring and use Honda 51447-KZ3-003 or rings for a Kawi C14... all have 48mm forks. I like not having to dig for the Yammy wire ring.
Not very likely at all you'll need any of that copper washer or o-ring. I've never replaced one.
You may distort the big washer that holds the upper bushing in... it can get that way from slide hammering the upper bushing out. Just flatten it and re-use. I do have a spare I use as an aid to my 2" ABS "seal driver" when installing bushings and seals.

That is what I thought for the bushings. As I mentioned, the O-ring and copper gasket are cheap and would rather have them on hand than possibly have to wait several days for an order - local dealer doesn't keep much stock. Good info on the wire retainer, thanks. I might have a couple of spares from the last time I did forks on the '07. If not, I'll check out the Honda part.

Despite using the abs lead/switch to cycle the abs just weeks ago, today I cycled front and rear abs manually. When some retard (rē-TARD) decided to turn across three lanes to get to the fourth, far left lane. She was 90 degrees to me for a second. Worked out okay. I may be a little hoarse, but no damage or injury.

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Fri Oct 23, 2020 3:59 pm Despite using the abs lead/switch to cycle the abs just weeks ago, today I cycled front and rear abs manually. When some retard (rē-TARD) decided to turn across three lanes to get to the fourth, far left lane. She was 90 degrees to me for a second. Worked out okay. I may be a little hoarse, but no damage or injury.

Did you break your middle finger on her windshield, or just sprain it?

Geebus!

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Fri Oct 23, 2020 3:59 pm Despite using the abs lead/switch to cycle the abs just weeks ago, today I cycled front and rear abs manually. When some retard (rē-TARD) decided to turn across three lane...She was 90 degrees to me for a second...

Glad that you managed to get through that alive. Drivers can do the dumbest things.

Yesterday I had a car blow through a red traffic light well over the speed limit just as I was entering the intersection. Now I don't need to use a jumper to check and cycle my ABS system. Having the right-of-way and getting the right-of-way are two entirely different things. Situational awareness = you live another day.

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Fri Oct 23, 2020 3:59 pm I may be a little hoarse, but no damage or injury.

How's your seat?

All good. I’m not smart enough to get scared that fast. Pissed comes instantly. Recognition that it could’ve been bad takes a little bit longer to percolate.

Rode it till the map turned blue.

Pre winter nap oil change

Hack wrote: ↑Sat Oct 24, 2020 8:27 pm Pre winter nap oil change

Wimp! It ain't white out yet and yer givin' up?

Is looking at the long range forecast. Were not gonna get much above 5c for the next couple of weeks. I suspect I'll be tucking it away this coming week as well.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Oct 24, 2020 9:54 pm

Hack wrote: ↑Sat Oct 24, 2020 8:27 pm Pre winter nap oil change

Wimp! It ain't white out yet and yer givin' up?

Well... In my defense the coming week is a write off as far as time to ride is concerned, so by then I'm sure it'll be about time to give up

I still might get out as I'll need to top off the tank before the real hibernation begins

Shell station @ Hwy 6 and Con. 8E has ethanol free... on your way back, jog onto Con. 6W.

bungie4 wrote: ↑Sat Oct 24, 2020 10:56 pm Is looking at the long range forecast. Were not gonna get much above 5c for the next couple of weeks. I suspect I'll be tucking it away this coming week as well.

I think we may be OK for a little longer. Temperatures for the remaining bit of October and for much of November are forecast to be mostly above seasonal norms. As long as there isn't salt on the road and temperatures are 5°C or higher, I'm good for a ride with a heated jacket liner. (I can manage lower temperatures but it isn't any fun) I hope I can hold off that final fill with premium gas (no ethanol here for premium) for a few more weeks. Winter works projects for the bike include a valve check, some electrical rewiring, fork bushings and seals, Penske shock to be sent off, LED headlights, relay arm service and maybe swingarm.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 8:33 am Shell station @ Hwy 6 and Con. 8E has ethanol free... on your way back, jog onto Con. 6W.

Oh yeah.... for sure.

I forsee a few wintery days hanging out at "Ray's Bike Shop & Red Wings Emporium" in the next few months.

May even trailer the FJR over for a valve check