Re: What did you do to your FJR today?
Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 12:44 pm
Bwahahaha!!!!!
Yamaha FJR1300 and Riding Enthusiasts
https://www.fjriders.com/forums/
Bwahahaha!!!!!
I will be interested in your experience with the forks with the AK-20 setup. I think I will likely have to replace seals (and bushings) soon on my 2011 - will try the Sealmate thing one more time. (Second time it was needed on each fork this season.)
I agree. My '07, which I bought slightly used (20,000 km), had the original springs replaced with Hyperpro springs by the original owner (as well as a Penske shock). Never had any problem or concern with this setup.raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 1:40 pm I know I keep saying this, but the stock valving is quite good (not race design, but good). Before making that big $$$ jump, install Traxxion's fork spring upgrade (straight rate) first and I guarantee you will notice a great improvement. I say Traxxion because it's a plug and play kit, no messing around with spacers/calculating/cutting. Fork spring upgrade IMHO is the best bang for the buck.... or ~U$130 bucks. Ride it for a season with the new springs, then decide if you really need to spend a g-note plus.
Often considered leaving the middle bushing out, but since I made the tool..... the problem is when slide hammering out, the bottom bushing can slip inside the middle, then jam when slammed against that beatch of an upper. BFH rubber hammer to unstick it unless you really did it... and in that case, it can earn you a nickname. Use heat!!
I have been fortunate enough to unstick some pretty bad ones... often wished I had a press like FYB has.
A bit concerned about heating the aluminum too much. Read that some manage to disassemble the FJR without heat so I'm thinking I shouldn't be able to overheat or burn anything with boiling water.raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 11:56 am I've done I dunno how many FJR's... note, upper bushing is an interference fit more than any other bike I've worked on. Can slide hammer out, but on an FJR, remove the dirt deflector shields and heat up the lower tubes hot at the bushing area before attempting to slide hammer the bushings/seal out. Otherwise, you'll be getting things jammed up in there most likely.
Best done clamped horizontally in a solid vice.
Dan @ Traxxion advised leaving the 3rd out. Took the 3rd out of my 2003 KTM 450 EXC too.FJRoss wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 1:35 pm I will be interested in your experience with the forks with the AK-20 setup. I think I will likely have to replace seals (and bushings) soon on my 2011 - will try the Sealmate thing one more time. (Second time it was needed on each fork this season.)
When Traxxion does these for Gen II bikes, they leave out the middle bushing. This is the one that is most problematic when taking it apart and the one that requires a special tool to set when reassembling. I have only done one set of Gen II forks (my 2007) and that was working with someone who had both the correct tools and the experience of doing these. One fork popped apart very easily but we had a helluva time with the second one!! Did manage to get almost 100,000 miles before I had any new leaks.
I went up that road with Bill Lumberg. I am glad no one was coming down.wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Fri Oct 16, 2020 8:48 pmBell Mountain Rd has no place to stop...you have to run it all the way to the top...which is hard on a 1 1/4 lane road if oncoming traffic is there. Very steep 20% grade at some spots I would guess. Jwilly gave me and Duane/1911 the tour.FJRPittsburgh wrote: ↑Fri Oct 16, 2020 8:23 pmWe've all been there my friend. Sorry you got into such an awkward situation. Thanks for sharing your experience.
What tool is needed to hold the AK-20 cartridge while loosening (or tightening) the lower bolt?N4HHE wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 11:34 pmDan @ Traxxion advised leaving the 3rd out. Took the 3rd out of my 2003 KTM 450 EXC too.FJRoss wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 1:35 pm I will be interested in your experience with the forks with the AK-20 setup. I think I will likely have to replace seals (and bushings) soon on my 2011 - will try the Sealmate thing one more time. (Second time it was needed on each fork this season.)
When Traxxion does these for Gen II bikes, they leave out the middle bushing. This is the one that is most problematic when taking it apart and the one that requires a special tool to set when reassembling. I have only done one set of Gen II forks (my 2007) and that was working with someone who had both the correct tools and the experience of doing these. One fork popped apart very easily but we had a helluva time with the second one!! Did manage to get almost 100,000 miles before I had any new leaks.
Yamaha P/N 4SV-W003B-00-00 is the 2016 FJR fork seal kit, only $24 from Rocky Mountain. Said to be $30 MSRP.
This must be you in this post over at ADVrider.comToter wrote: ↑Fri Oct 16, 2020 8:03 pm Took a ride with 5 other guys including my son-in-law. Everyone had adventure bikes but me. No worries. On the way up Shake Rag Rd. to Bell Mountain, right at the steepest uphill right turn, I meet an SUV coming down. Because of the steepness and drop of the road on the inside of the turn, I tried to stay more in the center. When I saw the SUV, I stopped, and put my feet down. Right foot found nothing but air, for quite a ways, and the bike was getting over center. Try as I might, I could not hold it and struggled it slowly on to the right side. Thankfully the guy in the car quickly jumped out to help me right the bike. The T-Rex engine guard and slider never touched down. The bag guard touched down and protected the bag and exhaust. Only casualty was the peg lowering bracket, it sheared off. Guy put it in my pocket and I rode the rest of the way to the top. Was able to remove the bracket and installed peg as normal. First tIme I have dropped a bike since my dirt bike days. This just hastens the removal of the lowering brackets. I was dragging both sides on Wolf Pen Gap before this incident. Surprised the bracket sheared off, but it really was supporting almost all of the bike weight and sheared at a quite thin area. The bracket and bag guard are the only parts that touched down. Cardinal sin was stopping, but the car was occupying the space I was headed for. If I had just paused and continued forward quickly, it would not have happened. That was probably the only spot on that road where a full stop was not possible. But, dumbass that I am, I found it! Bruised ego, but no real damage. I was very lucky! T-Rex bag guard saved the bike!
It's funny cause I check his thread over there from time to time. I like riding the area he lives in. Never met the guy just like looking at his log once in awhile to get some info on N. GA.
I'll give you my spin (no AK-20 experience)..... stock nut on cartridge is 26mm.FJRoss wrote: ↑Sun Oct 18, 2020 12:04 pmWhat tool is needed to hold the AK-20 cartridge while loosening (or tightening) the lower bolt?N4HHE wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 11:34 pmDan @ Traxxion advised leaving the 3rd out. Took the 3rd out of my 2003 KTM 450 EXC too.FJRoss wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 1:35 pm I will be interested in your experience with the forks with the AK-20 setup. I think I will likely have to replace seals (and bushings) soon on my 2011 - will try the Sealmate thing one more time. (Second time it was needed on each fork this season.)
When Traxxion does these for Gen II bikes, they leave out the middle bushing. This is the one that is most problematic when taking it apart and the one that requires a special tool to set when reassembling. I have only done one set of Gen II forks (my 2007) and that was working with someone who had both the correct tools and the experience of doing these. One fork popped apart very easily but we had a helluva time with the second one!! Did manage to get almost 100,000 miles before I had any new leaks.
Yamaha P/N 4SV-W003B-00-00 is the 2016 FJR fork seal kit, only $24 from Rocky Mountain. Said to be $30 MSRP.