FJRiders.com

First picture is the “flattened” side where the bearing failed.




This one is of the “good” side where the bearing stayed intact.

Both sides are being repacked with new oil seals. No way I want this to happen later after being able to take care of it while the wheels are off.


Anyway, my local dealer(not drug) is asking what pads to replace my current ones with. He can get OEM, but asked what I wanted and I said I would ask here first.

Also, I want 6 total pads right? The linked one in the front is hardly worn. Or just do them all now? Please advise a procedure and recommend a brand. Thanks.


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4 pads per caliper, total of 8, ordered in pairs (4 pair), for a pretty penny. My research on the subject found that most have been happiest with stock ones.

$36.99 per pair from Rocky Mountain ATV MC

By pads I presume brake pads? If so OEM is what I recommend because they work well, last a long time, aren't terribly expensive and most important don't trash the rotor.

You will need 2 Brake Pad Kits, part number 3P6-W0045-00-00 for a total of 8 pads. I would replace all of them. I changed them on my 09 and I was very satisfied. Make sure you pin pads are smooth with no indentations - clean them up and along with the pistons and your good to go. There was a post on the forum about cleaning the caliper assy recently. I forgot where that was at. Good post.

EBC HH pads. Work just as well as OEM at half the cost. If you are replacing all of the fronts, you need a total of eight pads - I think the EBC come in packages of four and OEM come in packages of two. If the linked caliper (lower right front) pads are in good shape, there is no need to replace them now. Still, I would probably do them all and keep any with enough meat on them to use if one or more wears faster. (Especially if going from OEM to the EBC.) Extend and clean up the pistons and clean/lube slider pins to help keep brake wear more even.
Usually at about half life, I switch the pads around to even out the wear - inside swap with outside. Check every time I change tires.

Edit: Some claim otherwise but I never found that the EBC HH pads were especially hard on the rotors. Never had to replace a rotor on a front wheel in 187,000 miles on my '07 and I only ever used the EBC after the original pads wore out.

OEM with 2 pads per kit

Didn't get home from work until late. Everyone was asleep and I wanted to wind down.

I missed the 2019 WSBK season, so I put on Race 2 at Misano and wired up my MotoWolf inductive charger into my RAM X-grip and then installed a set of rear Hyper-Lites.

Talked to Eric at Penske yesterday. My shock has been refreshed, run on the dyno, and is on it's way back. I might actually get to ride soon!!

“Good” bearing on the left. “Problem” one on the right.

Both have seen better days. Should have the new ones by Monday. Came out very easy with a bearing puller&slide hammer that a buddy had. Also ordered brakes that will also be in first thing next week. Went with the EBC HH ones due to availability while supporting my local dealer.

Gonna work on cleaning up the entire brake assemblies in the mean time. Werther is supposed to be nice this weekend. Good thing I have this little girl to ride while Halle is in the shop.


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Cav, if you can post up a good clear pic of that oil seal with the measurements. I'd like to see if I can cross it over to something I can get here at my work. If so I will post part numbers and suppliers for everyone.

Well - for myself, that pretty much does it. My bike hasn't seen a spec of Calcium Chloride in its entire life. OEM bearings stay put for now.

Cav - if the pads on your right side caliper linked to the rear are in good shape, you don't have to change them now. I let mine ride as they were well ove 50% left (I'm a very rare and light rear braker....). I went with OEM for the replacement.

BkerChuck wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 11:53 am Cav, if you can post up a good clear pic of that oil seal with the measurements. I'd like to see if I can cross it over to something I can get here at my work. If so I will post part numbers and suppliers for everyone.

Chuck, I measured a seal with calipers... we know the bearing and seal have an OD of 43mm, I measured the seal ID at 27.5mm but it has to have a little interference fit to the wheel spacer on the seal lip... sometimes we can decode sizes from the Yammy part number, in this case, the seal is xxxxx-28043-xx, so I would expect the seal to be 43 x 28 x 8mm thick. I'd bet the wheel spacer is 28mm OD but I don't have one handy.

Pants, the bearings won't see salt, they are sealed both sides. The grease seal serves to keep salt off the axle shaft, and let the wheel spacer see the environmental stuff. Next tar change, you just put some grease between the seal and the bearing and you're good. You'd have to have a pressure washer to blow any water in there, still won't get in the bearings.

Brake pads, check at tar change, swap them around as necessary, they may wear one half more than the other, or if worn too thin, replace and keep the old ones fer 'mergency. I have this collection....... I use OEM, or if I was using EBC I'd go with the organic ones not sintered, not for wear on the rotors but better brake feel (to me). OEM's are more organic.

Ray, sizing helps but have you ever seen how many variations of seals exist? Does the lip of the seal have a spring in it? Single lip or double lip? Metal casing or not? Sometimes they have a number on them often NOK *****. I can usually cross a lot of them over but many are OEM proprietary and they won't sell them to us. My parts manager here at the hydraulic shop has been doing this for over 40 years and rarely gets stumped. I figure the more stuff I can locate and cross over to simple and less expensive stuff we can all benefit.

Apologies..... How dare I measure an old seal..... found a brand new one, so let's start over.......
OD 44, ID of lips measured 27, thickness 7mm. Needed a magnifying glass to see the teeny numbers.... DC 28 44 7. Double lip, no spring. Pic with new on the left face up, old on the right face down... reflection shows the lips...

Interesting, quick Google search shows them coming from a company in France with a metal casing and actually having a spring on each side of the sealing lips encased in rubber. Looks like they might be proprietary as they don't offer a price and you need to make a request. Going to see if they cross over to something else. I've learned already that fork seals don't.

It's not like there's any oil pressure on either side, so no spring necessary.... I don't want to cut mine up, but maybe CAV can get his knife out...... OEM price is ~$7 each (MSRP $9).

Hppants wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 1:05 pm Well - for myself, that pretty much does it. My bike hasn't seen a spec of Calcium Chloride in its entire life. OEM bearings stay put for now.

I think that would be a pretty safe bet for my bike too.

danh600 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:01 pm

Hppants wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 1:05 pm Well - for myself, that pretty much does it. My bike hasn't seen a spec of Calcium Chloride in its entire life. OEM bearings stay put for now.

I think that would be a pretty safe bet for my bike too.

Just as bad as sodium chloride and calcium chloride is they way bikes are washed and dried.

Bad: Pressure washers and high pressure sprayers.

Bad: Leaf blower drying, high pressure air drying.

These things will drive water (and soap) past seals and into places where water can't normally intrude and then can't dry quickly.

(And there will always be a group that says, "But I've always done that and *never* had a problem". They are pushing their luck.)

ionbeam wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:09 pm

danh600 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:01 pm

Hppants wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 1:05 pm Well - for myself, that pretty much does it. My bike hasn't seen a spec of Calcium Chloride in its entire life. OEM bearings stay put for now.

I think that would be a pretty safe bet for my bike too.

Just as bad as sodium chloride and calcium chloride is they way bikes are washed and dried.

Bad: Pressure washers and high pressure sprayers.

Bad: Leaf blower drying, high pressure air drying.

These things will drive water (and soap) past seals and into places where water can't normally intrude and then can't dry quickly.

(And there will always be a group that says, "But I've always done that and *never* had a problem". They are pushing their luck.)

Never used a pressure cleaner, but I have to admit I have used a small blower. It's not a leaf blower. It's a small blower made for cars. I just blow off a little excess water then finish with a micro fiber towel. Our water spots if you try to completely dry a vehicle with the blower. So I just use it sparingly. You are probably right. I am not doing the bike any favors.

Of course going through afternoon thunder showers at 70mph is probably not great for it either.

danh600 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:41 pm

ionbeam wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:09 pm

danh600 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:01 pm I think that would be a pretty safe bet for my bike too.

Just as bad as sodium chloride and calcium chloride is they way bikes are washed and dried.
Bad: Pressure washers and high pressure sprayers.
Bad: Leaf blower drying, high pressure air drying.

These things will drive water (and soap) past seals...

...I have used a small blower...I just use it sparingly...

Of course going through afternoon thunder showers at 70mph is probably not great for it either.

That's the problem with high pressure and high velocity blowers, they exceed the pressure normally experienced at legal speeds and especially in directions that the designer hadn't expected.

ionbeam wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:52 pm

danh600 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:41 pm

ionbeam wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:09 pm
Just as bad as sodium chloride and calcium chloride is they way bikes are washed and dried.
Bad: Pressure washers and high pressure sprayers.
Bad: Leaf blower drying, high pressure air drying.

These things will drive water (and soap) past seals...

...I have used a small blower...I just use it sparingly...

Of course going through afternoon thunder showers at 70mph is probably not great for it either.

That's the problem with high pressure and high velocity blowers, they exceed the pressure normally experienced at legal speeds and especially in directions that the designer hadn't expected.

In my defense I have never exceeded the speed limit in any direction but forward.

Probably not good when humidity hovers around 90% here.
I should probably just use more micro fiber towels on the bike and use the blower for debris on the patio.

Well, I'm going to disagree..... how big a leaf blower or pressure washer we talking about and how close and what nozzle you using....... and on what vintage of bike? You'd have to be pretty dumb with a pressure washer to harm an FJR.
Meanwhile, probably should not exceed washing with water any faster than double the FJR's top speed.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 5:19 pm Well, I'm going to disagree..... how big a leaf blower or pressure washer we talking about and how close and what nozzle you using....... and on what vintage of bike? You'd have to be pretty dumb with a pressure washer to harm an FJR.
Meanwhile, probably should not exceed washing with water any faster than double the FJR's top speed.

I said up front there would be naysayers. A homeowner's pressure washer will have a pressure range of 1,300 to 2,400 psi. PSI, Pounds Per Square Inch. Tell me that this is what happens in a thunderstorm on the road. Aim that sucker right at wheel bearings and let 'er rip. Stand back a few feet and the pressure washer doesn't really get the job done, move closer and it works great.

Anyhoo, it opens an opportunity for water ingress that could be avoided.

That said, the Grand Poobah of NERDS uses a leaf blower to dry all his bikes. He has write-ups on changing bearings

Apparently Ray isn't just a Canadian hoser, he is a power hoser I can't fault the results of the bikes he turns out, they are handsome.