FJRiders.com

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:12 pm**

I was able to get out on the bike and get a couple growlers filled at a local brewery today, before the lock down start tomorrow at midnight for all non essential workers here in Ohio. Hope to see y'all on the other side...stay safe and healthy.

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:33 pm**

Behind schedule, but getting the FJR into the maintenance lane - fork fluid, oil, spark plugs, etc. this week...

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:34 pm**

Nice lift.

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:40 pm**

Thanks - it's the harbor freight special, but I got it used in like-new condition a few years ago for next to nothing...

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:34 pm Nice lift.

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2020 6:06 pm**

raYzerman wrote: ↑Fri Mar 20, 2020 11:06 pm
John d wrote: ↑Fri Mar 20, 2020 9:17 pm
ionbeam wrote: ↑Fri Mar 20, 2020 3:54 pm Since it's still running, if it was a timing tooth skip it happened at the cams. If the timing chain skip happened at the crank sprocket it would be an entirely different situation
I can guarantee that if anything happened with the timing chain, that it would be at crank.
A friend of mine had a 2010 with the timing off one tooth at the crank. It would idle a little "off" but not awful. He would cruise at say 4000 rpm and then would not settle back to idle when decelerating. Changed ECU's, checked sensors, cleaned injectors, everything... the engine had been out for 2nd gear trans fix, had a second shop check it all out when the first one couldn't fix it..... then Ray said, leave that bike with me for a coupla days... well all I did was ride it down the road half a mile and found it wouldn't develop full horsepower.... kinda knew what that was right away. Pulled the valve cover and checked timing marks. All I had to do was move the chain one tooth on the crank sprocket and... magic. In that case, both cams would be out of time.
IF only one of the cams was off a tooth, again depending on which direction, symptoms may be different or more subtle.
John, bottom line is I don't think you have a choice but to open it up to look, due to the uncertainty. You can check the MAP sensor of course, but that's like the third time on that bike isn't it? I've never heard of such an earwax problem, most only get it once. Well, you got nothing to lose by looking.......

It is off a tooth at the crank. Been trying to get it right, but it's not easy. Every time it looks right, but when I final check after turning the engine by hand it's still off by one tooth. Last go, it was off a tooth the other way. I'll go back at it another day. Grrrr!

BTW the valve cover does have to come off to do this. Remove the intake cam, and shift it over towards the exhaust to get enough slack in the chain at the engine sprocket.

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2020 7:23 pm**

ionbeam wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:04 pm
ice_station_zebra wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2020 2:59 pm Bag guards are a good idea for sure, but my wife found they hindered her access to the footpegs too much...The T-rex attaches differently (better maybe) and is swept back a little...
I've got the T-rex bag guards. My wife hates them. They make it almost impossible for her to get on/off. She would love for me to take them off. Howsomever, she is the reason I have the guards on; she makes balancing the bike much harder these days. If she wasn't a regular passenger I wouldn't have the guards. I'm hoping that riding our new horse will add some fitness and flexibility that will make it easier for her on the bike. There is one thing that remains undiscussed with her that she could do that would make it both easier for her to board/exit and also make balancing the bike easier. I did it almost 10 years ago and the 60 lbs remain off to today.

I should also have mentioned that my wife has pretty bad sciatica and doesn’t ride very often any more, just less pressing reason for me to keep the bag guards. I only dropped the bike once before I got the guards and the yamaha sliders protected the bags. Of course if I had been moving it would have been a different story.

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2020 8:37 pm**

Jim, no one can get lowering pegs any more, seems they've dried up.... somebody will want them somewhere...
Johnd, best set the crank, zip tie it, do all the changes at the cam where you have much larger sprockets and can see the timing marks right there. Backup is the holes in each of the cams at #1 TDC will be lined up with a vertical mark on the face of the cam bearing cap.

Posted: **Sun Mar 22, 2020 8:49 pm**

Moved the Cox Radiator Guard from the 09 to the 17. The 17 only has one horn while my 09 had a PIAA Slim Line 400Hz + 500Hz 112db Sports Horns. So I fabricated a plug in play cable to connect two horns and found some bushings to mount the second horn on the radiator shroud mount hole. The bushing create some space between the horn and the radiator.

Here is the cable.

Also found the lower fork PIAA light mount brackets were coming loose. Not the first time. The bolt also extends well beyond the nut collecting lots of grime and fouls the stub thread upon removal. So I clean up the stud, chased it with with a tap, and reassembled with a liberal amount of grease to prevent corrosion and added a lock washer.

Farkling will resume tomorrow.

Posted: **Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:17 pm**

Fixed my timing chain issue. Runs and idles good now.

Posted: **Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:20 pm**

John d wrote: ↑Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:17 pm Fixed my timing chain issue. Runs and idles good now.

Great news!

Posted: **Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:36 pm**

Pulled it back out of hybernation, so I can ride it to work tomorrow

Posted: **Mon Mar 23, 2020 8:02 pm**

Walked by Renee and blew her a kiss. Then went and washed the toyhauler. Raining cats and dogs all day in North Georgia. Going on a search for shotgun shells tomorrow. Got to be prepared for social collapse and toilet paper pirates! Arghhh!

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

Posted: **Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:32 pm**

Wired up the PIAA Slim Line horns on my 17 today. The wire assembly I created worked great.

Next was to remove the FZ1 mirrors on my 09 and put them on my 17. The upper panel was fun to remove. Not!

They maybe ugly but I can see what is behind me.

With the mirror installed next up is to remove a few feet of redundant wiring.

True to form the USB cable on the Garmin cradle does not work. I will replace it with the cradle from my 09 which I cut and sealed extra wires except the power wires.

Posted: **Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:29 am**

USB outlet on the Garmin works only if the GPS is ON..... some nice spaghetti you got there....

Posted: **Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:34 am**

Rode mine to work this morning.

Posted: **Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:43 am**

Mine was always on. The one that was part of the garmin harness. I’m assuming you’re referring to a different one. quote=raYzerman post_id=112888 time=1585049354 user_id=260]
USB outlet on the Garmin works only if the GPS is ON..... some nice spaghetti you got there....
[/quote]

Posted: **Tue Mar 24, 2020 1:08 pm**

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:29 am USB outlet on the Garmin works only if the GPS is ON..... some nice spaghetti you got there....

Thanks Ray. You are right the cable works if the GPS is in the cradle and on.

The GPS cable bundle is huge.

On the cradle on my 09 I trimmed and sealed the ends leaving only the power cables. I have other means taking up much less space for USB power.

Posted: **Tue Mar 24, 2020 4:22 pm**

Coolant change...

Posted: **Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:02 pm**

My coolant changes and sparkplug changes generally coincide with valve checks.

Posted: **Wed Mar 25, 2020 8:43 am**

Maintenance Continues...

Last night, I pulled the forks (staged for fluid flush & fill), ran hardware from front end through sonic cleaner to remove the brake dust and road grime, pulled passenger peg floor boards and replaced pads with new rubber diamond plate pad (from Harbor Freight). Also pulled the right side rider peg and brake pedal to clean and lube the pivot points, and started cleaning the fork legs.

more to follow...

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