FJRiders.com

Perhaps a bumble bee theme you could consider, the Kenny Roberts theme
https://www.google.com/search?q=yamaha+ ... 0fzJvXV6oM:

Or this one a 2003 FZ1.

Ok dang. When my subframe broke I broke both the left and right...erm, port and starboard sides of the back fairings. Bolted them back in place, installed the bags and I can't see it now. Your problem sounds more challenging.

Oh man, I'm in love with almost any yellow bike. Till I saw the FJR in yellow. She does NOT wear that color well. Red I usually don't like but that color suits her much better and I actually like it.

Uncle Hud wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 3:26 pm She's taken me on 80,000 miles of fabulous riding, but I'm hesitant to spend a bunch of money that will never be reflected in valuations for resale or trade-in. Am hoping to get her to 100,000 miles just to prove her toughness.

This is my feelings. Though I've nudged the final miles to 120k just because I know she should be able to do it easily. Of course, at this rate, it'll take me forever to get there. Need more riding time!

raYzerman, that works on the FZ1, but not the FJR, and goodness that lower fairing is hideous. Leave it be!

My old one.

^^^ Nice seat!

Uncle Hud wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 3:59 pm ^^^ Nice seat!

It was a Sargent. I loved that exhaust pipe though.

Just some thoughts from playing with cracked plastic in the past..... I would also suggest you consult the Jolene restoration team for plastic repair/refurb..... I have an aversion to JB Weld because it is runny and is roughly a 3000 psi epoxy, whereas Permatex is more like 4500. That said, runny might be good when joining cracked plastic (is it sandable after?), but I would highly recommend using Permatex Plastic Epoxy, build a couple of layers on the back side for strength. This stuff is tough, not hard like epoxies for metal, and can be shaped, sanded, painted. Get yourself a tube (two part syringe) and play with some test pieces.
I don't think you will successfully hide a crack unless you bevel the finished side edges so it will accept a filler, let is squeeze out on the finished side... if you used the plastic epoxy, it would fill the resulting V, adhere well and is sandable in the end, followed by your fave spot putty and primer.
There is also a way of welding plastic, but that involves a soldering iron and some plastic rod.. no experience there, but again, I would reinforce with plastic epoxy on the back side.
I'm sure there are folks with way more expertise than me.... maybe even consult a local body shop? Also consider that Gen3 side fairings aren't too terrible expensive (Partzilla $288 ea.) and come in your paint, save you all your labour and expense..... saddlebag lids are a little more expensive but are also available.........

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 4:10 pm Just some thoughts from playing with cracked plastic in the past.....

Thanks, Ray! Hadn't even investigated a new fairing, just assumed it would be too expensive.

May I ask what happened?

Over the past 80K miles: a dozen parking lot drops and one whopper drop at 30 mph in Pasco County, Florida. Typical "Hashtag I'm an idiot" stuff, and nothing that warrants titanium bodily inserts. (wink wink)

Most recent? SFO 2019, pulling into the hotel to finish the Rally Rally. Rolling into a parking space, when the driver's door started opening in the adjacent space. Note to self: Don't jam on brakes when leaning at 20 degrees.

Uncle Hud wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 4:22 pm A dozen parking lot drops and one whopper drop at 30 mph in Pasco County, Florida.

Typical Uncle Hud "Hashtag I'm an idiot" stuff.

Sounds like you and I could park our bikes together and no one would say "Wow, these bikes don't look like they have 80k miles on the, they look like new!"

Thanks to my International Technical Advisory Council (also known as Ray) Partzilla is shipping me both sides of the FJR fairing: brand-new and painted in the original color! Cost is not insignificant, but still less than the frustration, delay, and shitty results that would result from an Uncle Hud DIY project.

I'll be frustrated enough from the other subtasks currently underway. They're familiar electrical tasks, but one never knows what one will encounter until the wiring is exposed and you see how little room there is to work.

Geek fact: Partzilla's call center is in Albany, Georgia. Who'd guess?

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 3:57 pm raYzerman, that works on the FZ1, but not the FJR, and goodness that lower fairing is hideous. Leave it be!

My old one.

There's one just like that near me too going for play money.... IF you were doing an FZ1 again, would you go with Gen1 carb model or jump to late Gen2 with FI (say 2010+)... want to know if they pull well down low/mid range or do they have to be wound out to get their torque... I've never ridden one, just want to supplement the stable.... my Honda CBF1000 is so smooth all through the rev range (Bandit similar), but suspect the FZ1 is quite sporty.... 50 more horses.,

ionbeam wrote:

nfa1eab wrote: ↑Sun Nov 24, 2019 8:03 pm ...allow the shifter to return and reset. I was having trouble not resetting after a shift and not shifting into next gear...

FWIW, when the shifter does not return and fully center it is almost always that item 28 in the picture below needs to be cleaned. As you now know it's a bit of a PITA to get to but it greatly improves shifting once serviced. Item 29 is a thrust washer (wave washer) intended to keep the shift arm from moving in and out and should not be completely flattened when bolt #28 is tightened or that will also prevent the shifter from completely returning. You probably resolved the shifting issue when installed the shorter R1 shift arm by cleaning #28 and the shift arm is just incidental.

Ionbeam,
The problem was not the shift linkage not returning. It was my foot angle not allowing it to fully reset. R1 arm and adjusted the shifter above the top limit. Works great. Previously, if I adjusted the shifter above the upper limit it would hit the frame and not upshift. Shorter throw solved that. Did clean and lube everything as well. Great upgrade.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Rode up to Ellijay for lunch, then buzzed over and road 60 down to Dahlonega. 60 degrees. Great ride. Rode my buddies K 1600 GT. It's like your own personal Learjet. Not snappy like a fighter, but a big woooosh of power and speed. Nice bike.

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How to shop like a cheap bastard. When part shopping, always get the part number from someplace like partzilla and then google it. Often I find another supplier with a lower price. Always factor in shipping.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 5:57 pm There's one just like that near me too going for play money.... IF you were doing an FZ1 again, would you go with Gen1 carb model or jump to late Gen2 with FI (say 2010+)... want to know if they pull well down low/mid range or do they have to be wound out to get their torque... I've never ridden one, just want to supplement the stable.... my Honda CBF1000 is so smooth all through the rev range (Bandit similar), but suspect the FZ1 is quite sporty.... 50 more horses.,

Well now, that's a tough question. You see, the carb'd FZ1, when running well, and most do, but they are getting up there in age, is a well tuned machine. They were highly praised for the carb setup on those older models. I had two of them and loved them both. I had two thanks to a lady with an Acura and blinding sunlight in downtown Dallas between the buildings that seems like rendered me unseeable. FZ1 number 1 was rendered "Totaled" when it collided with the side of the car. Custom paint and airbrush work was gone.



I almost pulled the trigger on an FJR at the time when a forum member saw about my wreck and had a delicious beautiful bumblebee for sale with that seat and pipe and I couldn't resist. Eventually, I realized the FJR would suit me better and after chasing one in Arkansas, I put the FZ1 up for sale and the rest is history.

But, with relation to the Gen II, which I've not ridden, almost rode one a few weeks ago but picked a different bike in my buddy's garage to play on. The Gen II is much more sporty, it's lighter by a significant 20 pounds, a few more horsies, and fuel injected. You'd think that last part would be a plus but it got a lot of bad press around that because the carb model was so smooth and the new FI model was quite herky jerky and generally NOT smooth.

So, there's two schools of people around tuners. Those who think Ivan is a good guy, and those of us who wouldn't piss on him if he were on fire. He'll sell you an FCE (Fuel Cut Eliminator) which, um, eliminates fuel cut, the thing the FI system does to cut the amount of fuel when you close the throttle for emissions regulations and stuff, and then the surge when you get back on the throttle is supposed to be smoother since the cut is gone. I'd ride a surging bike before I'd send him a penny of my money. You see which camp I'm in.

In addition, there's a number of other mods that can be done to the bike and a friend of mine in Colorado has done all of them. He owned both and loved his fully modified second gen, and referred to it as a rip snorting beast.

Recently I had my supermoto, then my gixxer, but it was the FZ1s I'd owned that drew me back to the naked sportbikes. I picked the GSX-S1000 and haven't regretted it. My buddy that recently sold his FZ1 rode the GSXS and now he wants one.

If you can get a Gen 1 FZ1 for play money, it's a good solid bike, a bit heavy for today's standards, but way more sporty than a Bandit (ridden one back to back with my FZ1 and wasn't impressed with the bandit) so there's that. Hold out for a second Gen? These days they should be play money too, so depends on if you want more sporty, or more touring kinda, up to you. As I said, I ended up going for something newer, albeit more expensive, though leftover new models can be had for quite the deal if you look. January yields good deals especially on a two year old leftover.

Porn, because. Still FJR related.







Hope that helps, probably didn't, but there you go.

Didn't touch the bike. But i did skip of today because I'm a leaking snot monster.

I goggled how to rebuild a tucumsay carbtater on the interscreen . Came right off with an axe and prying off with a shovel. Turns out the main hole is in the gas bowl drain nut. Hoover thought that shit up must live in a single wide with the tars still on it down the road from Wheatness. Cuz the hole was plugged solid with dinosore boogers.

I have a couple hours to get it back together before were gonna get shat on again.

bungie4 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 11:02 pm... Turns out the main hole is in the gas bowl drain nut. Hoover thought that shit up must live in a single wide with the tars still on it down the road from Wheatness. Cuz the hole was plugged solid with dinosore boogers.

I think I know this guy. Hes got lawnmowers and scooters for sale in his front yard next to the tractor. He's the smart guy in the neighborhood who can make a livin without selling meth or confederate flags...

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 11:12 pm

bungie4 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2019 11:02 pm... Turns out the main hole is in the gas bowl drain nut. Hoover thought that shit up must live in a single wide with the tars still on it down the road from Wheatness. Cuz the hole was plugged solid with dinosore boogers.

I think I know this guy.

He's the smart guy in the neighborhood who can make a livin without selling meth or confederate flags...

He can also fix his girlfriend's hot water in her dorm without shutting off the water first.

Thanks, Jasen... I've been lurking on the FZ forum and see all the mods... alledgedly the Gen2 FZ1 was bad until they got the fueling right in 2010 (so I've read), but they tweaked it again in 2011, again in 2012. If the carb Gen1's were smoother than the 2012.... tough call. I can get any Gen1 for play money, but 2010 up aren't a ton more... I'm not looking for a sport bike, more sport touring... I doubt can it replace my Honda for smoothness throughout the range, the torque curve on the FZ peaks above 7000 rpm, but lower than that should still have the power of the Honda since the FZ has 50 more horses. That bumble bee with the fairing can be had for C$3500 at a dealer (more like U$2000 or so). Another bumble bee neked is C$3000 private sale.... wish I could test ride one for myself. There's a couple of white 2012's going for near double that money..
I'm gonna ask the same questions on the FZ forum, see what I get. Thanks again it helps.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2019 12:26 am I'm not looking for a sport bike, more sport touring.

Spend a little more, get both. My GSX-S above also comes in an F model with a full fairing. It's a bit more uglier than mine is, but the fairing plus windscreen options turn it into a SPORT tourer that is only hindered by having a chain, and the seat needs replacement. Throw some soft bags on and you are good to go. Folks over in Europe tour all over on them and love them.

Gen 1 FZ1 though would make a good ST bike for sure, again, screen, soft bags, seat and go. Again, Gen 1 carbs received high praise for their smoothness, not sure even that late model FZ1 could beat it. If you can find a good deal, you can jump on it and if you don't like it (You will) then you can sell it and not lose any money. Otherwise if you can get a ride on one, do that.

Folks over at the FZ1OA are good folks, I was a member there for a while.