FJRiders.com

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Fri Jul 18, 2025 9:50 pm What I thought were FJR Speed bleeders are actually BMW bleeders

I caught the distinction.
On the FJR they are Speed bleeders.
On the BMW not so much.

dan

When you crack them open, what keeps them from letting air in by the threads. I know they have some sealant on the threads, but does that seal them off well? Or, should I add Teflon tape as well?

No the sealant is plenty good..... it may wear off a bit eventually but only after quite a few bleeds....

raYzerman wrote: ↑Fri Jul 18, 2025 6:42 pm but so will a 2.5 or 3mm ID silicone hose. If you're ordering from Speedbleeder, I'd recommend their silicone hose.... it's not that easy to find elsewhere.

I think that silicone hose and bladder that they sell is more convenient than the actual speed bleeder itself! What a game changer.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Fri Jul 18, 2025 12:32 pm That would be concerning if your brakes were working fine, then went away and then were fixed with a bleed. Where is the air getting into the system?

May not be air but moisture finally reaching the critical point. My 2002 GL1800A would go 2.5 years then suddenly the clutch would not fully disengage that morning. Flush with new fluid and good for another 2.5 years.

Toter wrote: ↑Fri Jul 18, 2025 10:35 pm When you crack them open, what keeps them from letting air in by the threads. I know they have some sealant on the threads, but does that seal them off well? Or, should I add Teflon tape as well?

Teflon tape doesn't really work either.

Put grease around the outside when bleeding, speed bleeders or simple open-pump-close.

Harbor Freight has an excellent brake bleeder powered off air compressor. Was under $30 when found on sale, probably $40 now.

How to prevent 99% of your brake problems...... ignore the usual recommendation of flush/bleed every two years, and do it annually to have reasonably moisture-free fluid. Particularly an FJR that is prone to rear brake soft pedal and clutch fluid that goes through so many heat cycles (the clutch line is right beside the engine for most of its length). Clutch fluid will go dark if neglected.

Put away all your special bleeders like vac or the HF bleeder, and I do like SpeedBleeders. Use conventional bleed method by pumping the lever or pedal.

Once you have done a good flush/bleed to clean up the system, the annual bleed is a very simple short and quick bleed to get fresh in there, no worries if you have a few drops of old in there (it ain't 2 years old). Plus this bleed uses very little fluid, each of front and rear systems hold only a couple ounces if you want to calculate it. Get the small containers, not the quart size. Seal up your container and it will stay fresh enough for another bleed next year. And you're saving the environment.

You should not get soft pedal or clutch issues, no crud in the bottom of your reservoirs, and no ABS system issues.... if you have Gen1 or 2 ABS, cycle the ABS test as well. Gen3 less important as the system is more robust (my opinion), but sure, cycle it as well.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Jul 20, 2025 8:17 am How to prevent 99% of your brake problems...... ignore the usual recommendation of flush/bleed every two years, and do it annually to have reasonably moisture-free fluid. Particularly an FJR that is prone to rear brake soft pedal and clutch fluid that goes through so many heat cycles (the clutch line is right beside the engine for most of its length). Clutch fluid will go dark if neglected.

Put away all your special bleeders like vac or the HF bleeder, and I do like SpeedBleeders. Use conventional bleed method by pumping the lever or pedal.

Once you have done a good flush/bleed to clean up the system, the annual bleed is a very simple short and quick bleed to get fresh in there, no worries if you have a few drops of old in there (it ain't 2 years old). Plus this bleed uses very little fluid, each of front and rear systems hold only a couple ounces if you want to calculate it. Get the small containers, not the quart size. Seal up your container and it will stay fresh enough for another bleed next year. And you're saving the environment.

You should not get soft pedal or clutch issues, no crud in the bottom of your reservoirs, and no ABS system issues.... if you have Gen1 or 2 ABS, cycle the ABS test as well. Gen3 less important as the system is more robust (my opinion), but sure, cycle it as well.

Agreed, for the most part. I bleed brake/clutch circuits annually. An easy service done along with lubing rear brake pivot, shift linkage, hand levers and (especially) the clutch brass bushing at the beginning of riding season. I have never used speed bleeders - job is pretty quick without them and while a bit awkward, I don't have any issues reaching the bleeder screws while operating the brake (or clutch).

I would, however, like to have the means to do my car without assistance. Came across an interesting gadget. Includes a bottle with hoses and a one-way check valve. Also a magnet to attach the bottle to a brake rotor or steel frame (car, not bike) so it doesn't fall over. Would probably also work just fine on the bike as well. Cheaper and easier alternative to a vacuum bleeder, unless you need the vacuum to help extract stubborn bubbles. It got pretty good ratings on Amazon. (Expensive for what it is, but OK if it works reliably.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9 ... X0DER&th=1

You can also buy simple check valves with attached hoses for cheap, but this appealed because of the larger volume and magnetic attachment. Ratings were variable on some of the simple check valves.

What's the thoughts on those showing using a big syringe to push fluid into the bleeder, forcing the air up to the master cylinder?

Pushing the fluid up to the master cylinder is a more efficient method when the system has been apart, like rebuilding calipers, or replacing brake lines. One of the steps a lot of people miss is pushing the pistons fully into the calipers to get all the old fluid out of them. When flushing/replacing old fluid, I don't like to push old fluid from the caliper up into the master cylinder. I'll use a vacuum bleeder to suck the old fluid out of the MC. Then, compress pistons, and suck the rest of the old fluid out of the MC. I then put in fresh fluid and bleed until new fluid comes out at caliper. Then, squeeze the brake lever repeatedly until the lever gets hard when all pistons are pushed out. Then top off the MC. Obviously you do both front calipers simultaneously when removing old fluid from the MC. This ensures you get the nastiest fluid out of the calipers, and don't push it all the way up to the MC. Nickel in MC to prevent any fountain action when pumping lever. Remove when done.

Dillusion is the solution to pollution.

As to which way works best, the answer is very clear: yes.

That is all.

Hppants wrote: ↑Mon Jul 21, 2025 8:40 am Dillusion is the solution to pollution.

As to which way works best, the answer is very clear: yes.

That is all.

What's dillusion? Must be a belief in pickles! Anyway, even written correctly, it has nothing to do with brake bleeding procedures.

(Spelling not withstanding)

Dilution: Noun - the action of making a liquid more dilute.

For the benefit of the grammatically challenged:

When there exist XX volume of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, YY months (or years) old, residing within a brake system that includes a volume of ZZ contaiminents (which could be referred to as "pollutants" or sumarily "pollution"), to including but not limited to: moisture, brake dust, gorilla snot, and whale jizz. After bleeding and/or flushing said system using whatever method you prefer, in whichever direction you prefer, the new total volume of the brake system (formally XX + ZZ) now consist of new Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid plus whatever residual ZZ contaminents exist, residing in places to include, but not limited to: caliper reservoir corners, master cylinder reservoirs, slave cylinder corners, areas within the brake line that get limited flow, etc. However, regardless of your method and/or direction, by all rights and privledges therein, and here's the REALLY important part - wait for it....

The old fluid in the system has been DILUTED with new fluid.

Having experienced all of this in good faith and with honorable and logical intentions, one can reasonably deduce that a SOLUTION has been attained.


Or... describing it much more succinctly....

Dilution is the solution to pollution.

A very good source of info. on brake servicing is on YouTube by a guy called "Boxflyer". He has tons of videos on BMW boxer servicing, but his brake service video is very thorough, and for the most part, servicing, cleaning brake calipers, and replacing fluid, is common to all motorcycle brake systems. He also does a great job of explaining why he does each step.

Sent email to SpeedBleeder, they have now updated the chart...

Don,

I double checked the size and quantity and the application chart needs to be corrected. Thank you for bring it to my attention. Below is the corrected quantity by year.

FJR1300

03-07 Front.....SB8125L Q2
Rear.......SB7100S

08-24 Front......right SB8125L Q2 / left SB8125L Q1
Rear.......SB7100S

Thank you for choosing Speed Bleeder Products. We look forward to serving your brake bleeding needs.

Best Regards,
Whitney

Speed Bleeder Products
888 879 7016

https://store-speedbleeder-com.3dcartstores.com/

I'll quibble with that.... first listing should be 03-05, second listing should be 06-24. Plus clutch.