After my ride yesterday, the speedbleeder on the left front caliper was leaking slightly. Just did the full brake clean and fluid flush adding speedbleeders recently. I snugged it up yesterday and sprayed off the caliper with brakeclean. Upon returning from my ride on the GS today, the caliper is still leaking a little. I will pull that bleeder and add some Teflon tape and hope that will seal it up. Should not have put the speedbleeders on. They were a solution to a problem that did not exist. Now, I have a problem.
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I spent most of my money on guns, motorcycles, women, and whiskey. The rest I just wasted!
Toter wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 9:29 pm
After my ride yesterday, the speedbleeder on the left front caliper was leaking slightly. Just did the full brake clean and fluid flush adding speedbleeders recently. I snugged it up yesterday and sprayed off the caliper with brakeclean. Upon returning from my ride on the GS today, the caliper is still leaking a little. I will pull that bleeder and add some Teflon tape and hope that will seal it up. Should not have put the speedbleeders on. They were a solution to a problem that did not exist. Now, I have a problem.
Don’t I recall something about never using Teflon tape on brake parts? Maybe I’m wrong. I thought that was a no no because the brake fluid does something to the tape.
"That wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be" - 1911
"Stay thirsty, my friends"....... Wouldn't that mean I'm dehydrated all the time?
Toter wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 9:29 pm
After my ride yesterday, the speedbleeder on the left front caliper was leaking slightly. Just did the full brake clean and fluid flush adding speedbleeders recently. I snugged it up yesterday and sprayed off the caliper with brakeclean. Upon returning from my ride on the GS today, the caliper is still leaking a little. I will pull that bleeder and add some Teflon tape and hope that will seal it up. Should not have put the speedbleeders on. They were a solution to a problem that did not exist. Now, I have a problem.
Don’t I recall something about never using Teflon tape on brake parts? Maybe I’m wrong. I thought that was a no no because the brake fluid does something to the tape.
Thanks, I'll research. What the hell do I use?
I spent most of my money on guns, motorcycles, women, and whiskey. The rest I just wasted!
Toter wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 9:29 pm
...Should not have put the speedbleeders on. They were a solution to a problem that did not exist. Now, I have a problem.
I feel the same about Speedbleeders. I figure they would save me maybe 15 minutes every two years vs the usual loosen-squeeze-tighten-release-repeat method. (Obviously, many will disagree with me.) I can see their value in a situation where you can't access the bleeder while pumping the brake without a helper.
If you look at a bleeder, once tightened, it seals off the port...... fluid should not be getting by it, or into the threads... Speedbleeder or not.... methinks you got something else going on... remove and inspect... maybe a piece of dirt in there?
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raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Jun 01, 2024 7:26 am
If you look at a bleeder, once tightened, it seals off the port...... fluid should not be getting by it, or into the threads... Speedbleeder or not.... methinks you got something else going on... remove and inspect... maybe a piece of dirt in there?
Hopefully just dirt. Possibly a damaged bleeder or (worse) a damaged seat.
I agree that it is worth removing, inspecting (and flushing).
Washed the FJR yesterday and received a set of PR4 GT tires from Rocky Mt ATV.
Today while Big John is in a boat floating around (we hope) on Lake Chelan with Festar I will be riding to Prineville Or to beat the next around of rain in the Pacific Northwet. Destination California.
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Had the new RS3s put on then did my usual balance test. This set is very well balanced. Back home, engine oil and filter and final drive oil. Time to wash the Georgia bugs and dirt off and give it some Adams graphene detailer.
Ready for Joliet, Montana and Spearfish. Depending on timing, I may just ride 3 hours west and take a spin around Yellowstone.
It was great catching up with Festar’s neighbors Kevin and Marie. I met them on a FJR group ride back in 2014. They are staying at a friend’s place 45 minutes away. I was working nearby today and had some free time so I stopped by for a visit. Good peeps!
03 waiting for a fuel pump to be delivered Friday, he took advantage on the down time for other maintenance. 140k miles and still doesn't use oil.
Just a quick followup. Talked to Kevin this morning, fuel pump in and all is well.
Toter wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 9:29 pm
...Should not have put the speedbleeders on. They were a solution to a problem that did not exist. Now, I have a problem.
I feel the same about Speedbleeders. I figure they would save me maybe 15 minutes every two years vs the usual loosen-squeeze-tighten-release-repeat method. (Obviously, many will disagree with me.) I can see their value in a situation where you can't access the bleeder while pumping the brake without a helper.
Harbor Freight air powered brake bleeding tool was $30 when I bought years ago. Unlike Speed Bleeders this one tool works on everything I have with hydraulic brakes, and most with hydraulic clutch. Unlike Speed Bleeders it requires an air compressor.
Speed Bleeder or not, there is a seat between the tapered bleeder and the caliper which should seal. If not this seat is damaged or has some sort of crud preventing a clean metal on metal seal. Teflon tape on the threads is not a solution. Take the bleeder out, wipe and inspect the tapered seat, wipe and inspect the tapered seat bottom in the caliper, reassemble and see what happens.
Grease on the threads can help minimize air being sucked in during the bleeding process. Speed Bleeders put some sort of Teflon tape on the threads for this purpose. I have put Bel-Ray waterproof grease around a bleeder then attached my Harbor Freight bleeding tool to suck brake fluid out. But usually I don't bother and let the bleeder tool suck air and brake fluid.
The ride to Prineville Oregon was mostly uneventful. A deer in a field of wheat decided to run across the road. Two things went right. The brown moving deer was easy to spot in the green wheat field. The second was the deer was two cars ahead of me. I was on the brakes when the dumb critter was in the wheat field. How the deer wasn't struck by oncoming traffic or by the two cars ahead of me was a miracle. I had images of massacred version with stray car parts heading my way.
A couple of photos.
Hwt 218 was recently chip sealed. Grrr...
Hwy 206 in Oregon wasn't.
Great road.
The new RS 4's performance was outstanding. Easy to drop into a turn with confidence inspiring grip. Not squirmy at all. I am impressed.
Last edited by fontanaman on Sat Jun 01, 2024 9:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Searching for roads paved with Asphalt, unless I am riding the mighty DR650 bushpig.
Toter wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2024 9:29 pm
...Should not have put the speedbleeders on. They were a solution to a problem that did not exist. Now, I have a problem.
I feel the same about Speedbleeders. I figure they would save me maybe 15 minutes every two years vs the usual loosen-squeeze-tighten-release-repeat method. (Obviously, many will disagree with me.) I can see their value in a situation where you can't access the bleeder while pumping the brake without a helper.
Harbor Freight air powered brake bleeding tool was $30 when I bought years ago. Unlike Speed Bleeders this one tool works on everything I have with hydraulic brakes, and most with hydraulic clutch. Unlike Speed Bleeders it requires an air compressor.
Speed Bleeder or not, there is a seat between the tapered bleeder and the caliper which should seal. If not this seat is damaged or has some sort of crud preventing a clean metal on mretal seal. Teflon tape on the threads is not a solution. Take the bleeder out, wipe and inspect the tapered seat, wipe and inspect the tapered seat bottom in the caliper, reassemble and see what happens.
Grease on the threads can help minimize air being sucked in during the bleeding process. Speed Bleeders put some sort of Teflon tape on the threads for this purpose. I have put Bel-Ray waterproof grease around a bleeder then attached my Harbor Freight bleeding tool to suck brake fluid out. But usually I don't bother and let the bleeder tool suck air and brake fluid.
I have been using the Harbor Freight bleeder for quite a while. That's why I said the Speedbleeders were a solution to a problem that didn't exist. Created my own PITA!
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I spent most of my money on guns, motorcycles, women, and whiskey. The rest I just wasted!
How do you get a tight enough seal around the bleeder? Because every suction type device I've used only serves to suck air bubbles in around bleeder. Speed bleeders are dead nuts easy to use.
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gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Jun 02, 2024 12:56 am
How do you get a tight enough seal around the bleeder? Because every suction type device I've used only serves to suck air bubbles in around bleeder. Speed bleeders are dead nuts easy to use.
A little grease around the bleeder.
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I spent most of my money on guns, motorcycles, women, and whiskey. The rest I just wasted!
gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Jun 02, 2024 12:56 am
How do you get a tight enough seal around the bleeder? Because every suction type device I've used only serves to suck air bubbles in around bleeder. Speed bleeders are dead nuts easy to use.
gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Jun 02, 2024 12:56 am
How do you get a tight enough seal around the bleeder? Because every suction type device I've used only serves to suck air bubbles in around bleeder. Speed bleeders are dead nuts easy to use.
A little grease around the bleeder.
I use vaseline, it's cleaner then grease.
Are you still talking about the bleeder threads Bug?
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