Advice on Handling Anomaly

[bill lumberg]

My 2022 handles great- at speed, in the curves, on the interstate, but there is something up…

I left yesterday on the interstate, and started getting busyness and weaving in the front end. Not a tank slapper, but it kind of felt like the front tire was low and starting to dodge. It was alarming. Really felt like I had a tire going flat.

Since I don’t have tpms on this bike yet, I stopped and checked pressures. They were fine. Didn’t find anything loose. Tires looked like tires.

Over about 8 hours of interstate- I figured out that my weaving and wavering was from the wake of semi trucks. I can tell a truck is up ahead from the bike before I even see the truck. It’s wild.

This is repeatable with the screen up or down, and regardless of suspension damping setting. At any highway or fjr-nominal speed. I’ve never had a bike do this- to include my two previous FJR’s. Steering nut is torqued to 85ft/lbs, but I haven’t checked anything else.

Any suggestions?
1/2 lb. Teriyaki, 1/2 lb. Hot and spicy. If you know, you know.

[Red]

Bill,

I would check torques on the fork clamps, axles, and check for side play in the swing-arm (not likely). Check all of the windshield screws. Remove the top box, and make another test ride.

I had a tire get low on my car; the tire heated up, and showed the correct inflation when hot, but when it got cooled down, I saw the problem.
A TPMS would have sounded the alarm on a hot tire, before the pressure went low. Now my vehicles all have a TPMS. The cheap valve-cap units work well for me, but if you get a TPMS, make sure the batteries are replaceable in the sensors, whether they are internal or external sensors. With some systems, a non-replaceable battery means you buy a new sensor when the sensor battery runs down.

[bill lumberg]

I’ve used Fobo for years. This bike is new, so I don’t have t-valves on it yet to support the monitors. Thanks for the suggestions.

I can actually watch the nose wobble left and right. Time to check some bolts and screws.

[danh600]

Does it do it with the stock windshield?

An after market windshield made my old Honda do some really weird things.

Every other after market windshield we have used on various bikes enhanced the bikes. Not that one.

[Auburn]

I’ve used Fobo for years. This bike is new, so I don’t have t-valves on it yet to support the monitors. Thanks for the suggestions.

I can actually watch the nose wobble left and right. Time to check some bolts and screws.

If you have metal valve stems, 1 would put the FOFB on so you can use them until you can install the T stems.

[wheatonFJR]

I’ve used Fobo for years. This bike is new, so I don’t have t-valves on it yet to support the monitors. Thanks for the suggestions.

I can actually watch the nose wobble left and right. Time to check some bolts and screws.

Yeah, that ain't right.

[bill lumberg]

I wonder why it doesn’t manifest at any speed or angle- except in turbulence. I mean from 30mph to (alleged) 130mph. Nothing.

No parameters changed from before this showed up except for being on an interstate where tractor trailer trucks were allowed.

This hadn’t happened at all in the first 1,300 miles or so- but, again, none of those roads had semi trucks. Purty weird. My best guess is a tire issue. I’m letting it cool off so I can check Red’s suggestion.

Bike handles like greased witchcraft otherwise.

[0face]

I know you'll do it already, but I'll add my 2 cents anyway... It really sounds like a tire or windshield thing.

But, be sure to check all the bolts around the rotors and calipers, even the bolts that hold the stay for rear caliper. Also check the bolts on your engine guards. I've had some back out, mostly because I'm an idiot and didn't torque them enough for whatever reason.

One last thing, check your VIN# and make sure Jwilly didn't swap rides with you... He's an a-hole like that.

[NTXFJR]

Like said already, make sure the front axle clamp bolts on the forks are tight. Also, I'd check both sides top and bottom of the triple clamps. You might jack the front up off the ground and check for bearing run out allowing the wheel to slide side to side. I found a couple of issues with mine when it was new where the $15 hr green horn wrench bender didn't assemble things correctly.

[SkooterG]

The solution is simple. You need to make peace with your '18 FJR as obviously it has cursed your newer, younger model.

[SLK50]

Head bearing are loose, need re-torqued
after initial break-in.
This is not the “steering nut”.

[raYzerman]

Agree, Yammy's steering heads are loose after a coupla hunnert miles, they all need retorque (some do at 600 mile service). As well, the torque spec I believe to be in error, too light, as every other bike I know using the same ball bearing design torques to at least 16 - 18 ft. lbs. final torque, or has an effort spec.

I would also recheck all the front wheel torques as it's the dealer dude who installs the front wheel, mirrors and dash trim...

What tire pressure you running on the front, the Yammy recommended 36 psi handles like a truck........ as well, those Bridgestone BT-023's.... I don't know anybody who really liked them..... SO, I'm gonna say, you'll like the handling better with the next set of tars.

[N4HHE]

The top steering stem nut has almost nothing to do with handling unless it is finger tight.

Makes me a contrarian but the symptoms described are similar to what I experienced when the steering bearings were too tight. The usual symptom of loose steering bearings is hands-free wobble during deceleration in the 40-45 MPH range. Too-tight makes it hard to find and hold a straight line. For me this manifests at 60+ MPH. Hard to explain why this didn’t manifest until 1300 miles.

At this point the thing to do is pull the top fork bridge to reach the castle nuts which set front bearing preload. Back the bottom one off to finger tight then back to 13 lbs-ft. If you note the original position before loosening and the final position after resetting the preload we can guess whether it was too loose or too tight before.

The optimal steering bearing preload is a subject of much debate. So if you don’t have the special tool just use a large pair of slip joint pliers and fake it.

[raYzerman]

I can pretty much guarantee you a new FJR's steering head bearings are never too tight. And yes, much debate about those who mention a wobble and what the cause is.

The good old fashioned way to snug them was to torque until there is an effort to turn (with the bike jacked so front end is off the ground), and some had an effort spec (fish scale at the handlebar end, 2 lbs. max.). I prefer the next to nothing effort to turn, 16 ft. lbs. is not too much, close to perfect, 18-20 is pushing it. So basically, don't need a tool if you use the effort method.

[Bounce]

How was your luggage loaded? I've had that slow oscillation happen when I put heavier things in the trunk and unloaded the front wheel. It was just enough to create a slow, back-and-forth while going down the interstate. Had tossed my leather jacket in the trunk for ease of access and, on top of lighter things and how they were packed lower in the saddle bags.

[bungie4]

My two sense.

Remove top box and retest. My givi would make my 04 oscillate at hwy speeds. Put a passenger or duffel on the pillion seat and it would disappear.

Align front end. Remove fork springs. Loosen all bolts except upper triple tree fork tube clamps. Lower bike to engage forks entirely. While collapsed, tighten and torque all bolts from top to bottom. This includes front axle.

Of course, it could just be shitty factory tires

[D-Eagle]

From that picture I blame the diesel you put in it.
Ok, I got nothing.......

[Cav47]

Might just slow down a little. At the speeds I hear you run, some time space continuum is being pushed. Bead is seated perfectly right?

Is there a difference in the city cases vs the regular ones?

[wheatonFJR]

Might just slow down a little. At the speeds I hear you run, some time space continuum is being pushed. Bead is seated perfectly right?

Is there a difference in the city cases vs the regular ones?

City cases get him 10 more HP...and are transforming into plasma at BL speeds. However, I'm with 0Face, our middle fingered friend...either tires or windshield. I will also concur with others if top box laden but no passenger...could be aerodynamics going on if this only occurs at "high" (cough) BL speeds.

edit: THIS if muffler bearings are ruled out.

[Hppants]

I would not be surprised to learn this is corrected with a new front tire.

I did not (and do not) like the BT023. Not in the slightest.